P&L Borgeot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Boudriotte Rouge

North London TWS Tastings series: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (Must and Lees, N1) : Nose of quite pronounced leather, sous bois, dried cherry, umeboshi (which I love) blackcurrant, tapenade. Palate has blackcurrant and a little of the ume but a little sharp on the finish. Still very good

North London TWS Tastings series: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (Must and Lees, N1) : Very light coloured, some noticeable brickiness coming through. Pleasant, some tapenade and olive-y notes seemed prominent. Don't often drink red Chassagne, an interesting wine that I can't really make much comparison to.

A touch of reduction again. This tasting has had a lot of it! I have a fondness for 2008 - it's underrated, overshadowed by the great 09s and 10s that came after. Very dry this wine. Smoky, more oak/tannin than fruit. Sharp and precise; serious. I do actually like this wine, but it's austere and somewhat lacking in charm. Would probably deter the uninitiated, but it has hidden rustic pleasures tucked in away there.

Chardonnays and Pinots of North London (Must & Lees) : Nicely mature. Gamey nose, dark fruit, good length. At times the flavours reminded me of a Bloody Mary. Charming and in the peak zone for drinking.