Hubert Lignier Bourgogne-Aligoté Aux Poirelots

2/3. 767 days lapse (26 moons). 50°F (10° C). From a bottle open yesterday, depleted of one serving, resealed tabletop; almost calculated in advance to drink today. SCENT: bare traces of reduction progressively vacating; centered around a rupture of chalk and almond/cashew; decorated in stemmy spring herbs, cherry cream, sweet citrus, cucumber seed, and gravel milk. TEXTURE: a kinetic, confident pleasantry; a burst of succulent ripe and tart apple, yellow plum, and meyer lemon. This resolves in seconds to reveal …

1/3. I give this credit; it won't offer a ready aromatic handle to organize the experience of smelling it—no esters; no raw oak; no buttered pears, nor oily citrus. At most there is a breeze over shelled hazelnuts. A cat might smell in it a sealed jar of yellow grape jam—but at a distance. A drink however produces emphatic flavors, which follow contours of stone structure. This, wants, air. Sticky bones, circus peanut—ever so gentle evidence of reduction.* Cold pressed …