Bernard Schwach Muscat Domaine de Moulin de Dusenbach, Cuvée des Asperges

Domaine du Moulin de Dusenbach (Barnard Schwach) really "gets" muscat. They grow both types, "a petits grains," and "ottonel," and blend them carefully, at least in their prestige cuvées. I picked these wines after an exhaustive (10-producer, 16-wine) tasting at the Salon des Viticulteurs Indépendants in Paris, in 2009. They have (at least) 3 cuvées, "Cuvée des Aspèrges," which privilidges the remarkable combination of explosive and floral fruit, and a "Réserve," which seeks to bring out the richness of their …