Gigou, Jasnieres, Raisins Nobles

This has the golden colour you would expect from noble rot. The nose shows perfumed quince and apple fruit with evident botrytis and a mushroomy, savoury aspect - maybe a touch of oxidation too. In the mouth it displays super concentration, tension and balance. The sweet attack is pierced by an electrifying spike of acidity. Quality-wise this is up there with some of the best sweet Vouvray, and I'd be willing to bet that it is just as long-lived. I …