Whitethorn Winery Pinot Noir Wiley Vineyard

Very often this vineyard produces some of my favorite fruit from the Anderson Valley. But it's hard to recognize in this '12, which has none of the generous fruit of the vintage nor the particular savory characteristics of the region. Like something went sideways during the winemaking - not really recognizable as Pinot Noir, with a dominant vegetal character and bitter edge. I don't think the bottle is flawed, but there's very little pleasure or character to be had from …