Bertani, Recioto della Valpolicella, Valpantena

Deep purple-ruby. Nose of dried cherry/amarena, grape jelly/cordial, violet and gentle cocoa spice. Palate is sweet but not sticky, medium body, modest concentration for the style; tannin light-soft, acidity moderate, giving a digestible, lifted feel. Flavours echo red fruits with a touch of baking spice; medium–long, pleasant finish. Nicely balanced and easy to drink, if subtle and a bit dilute versus top Recioto benchmarks. (Corvina-led blend via appassimento. At a nice restaurant, in proper glassware and temperature. With a carefully …

Great with Thanksgiving dinner. Not quite as good as when it was called Villa Arvedi Bertoni. Not sure what the difference is. Perhaps the grapes are not all from Bertani vineyards.

Dinner at La Pergola, Rome. Super concentration, dark smoky fruits, lackberries, plums, peppers, pepper, grass, "dark" herbs. Smoky fruits on the palate. Just sweet enough, no cloying or honeyed caramel stickiness. Lovely.