Paul Bara, Brut Millesime

I just love aged champagne, although this wasn’t the best expression of it, it still checked my box. Almost had a bitter after taste, which I struggled with but everything else was nice. Wouldn’t buy any more

from 375mL. very light golden color with faint bead. Nose initially reductive, then nutty golden fruits. Palate nutty, some golden fruit, very strongly stony minerality. Concerningly seems slightly oxidized though for a 20-year-old champagne from a half, perhaps that's to be expected. Nonetheless seems over the hill. May be better from a full-size bottle. 87 pts

Straw yellow with medium sized bubbles in a steady stream. Initially showed a hint of developing meatiness on the nose, but this was soon reined in and reverted to some pretty primary ripe yellow apple. A hint of autolysis overlays the very pure fruit after some time in glass. Still quite primary on the palate, but plenty of concentrated fruit with sufficient balancing acidity to suggest that this is a long way from where it's going. The only niggle is …

No malo, 90% pinot... Crisp but not just severe as the single fermentation might suggest. Really balanced and lovely, although not seared into the back of my taste buds like Selosse can do.

Dry and Nice.

Toasty, flour and biscuit nose; lovely, rich citrus and mineral with sweet edges, good acidity; medium-plus finish