Von Schubert, Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mosel

From 75cl screwcap. A superb bottle, featherlight, with wonderful pollen scent and vibrant, structured mid-palate. This is still in its infancy, 9 years after the vintage. 90P

From 75cl screwcap. An exceptional bottle: Slate minerality, crystalline structure, feather-light on the mid-palate. Extraordinary purity. Mature, but no hurry. 90-91P

From 75cl screwcap. Gorgeous, acidic-edged Ruwer, light as a feather (11,5% alc.) Long life ahead (if only I can keep my fingers off my few remaining bottles...) 89+P

From 75cl screwcap. Always a class act, this Grünhaus performs as noted in my previous TNs (especially the ruby grapefruit imitation). Still a bit fizzy, amazing after all those years... 89P

From 75cl screwcap. Edging towards full maturity, this beautiful Kabinett is a model of delicacy. Massive scent of powdered slate and grapefruit pith; pure grapefruit fruit on the dancing, lithe palate; long, intense, lip-smacking, moreish finish. Once again, a superb Grünhaus wine which needed six years after the vintage to settle down. Drink now or anytime in the next decade. 90P

From 75cl screwcap. Closed, thin, spritzy, slatey, unready. This is nowhere near ready to drink. Fired by a recent precocious half-bottle of 2009 Abtsberg Alte Reben (=Spätlese trocken), I mistakenly thought this might be worth a try, but the rule of thumb that Grünhauser Kabinetts (indeed Grünhauser wines, period) need 7 years to start opening up and showing their best is a good one. Leave well alone until 2015-16. 89P(?)

Grünhaus and Künstler : Strong grapefruit aroma makes it past the youthful SO2 residue. Fuller than the Herrenberg Kabinett trocken, appealingly creamy/oily texture. Can already be drunk with pleasure, but will surely improve over the next 4 years and hold a decade. 90P