Olivier Horiot, Ephemere Unmei

2015 base vintage, zero dosage. A rare cuvee of 33% Meunier, 33% Pinot Gris, 33% Petit Meslier, biodynamic viticulture in Aube. Explosive tropical fruits with ultra-ripe lemon juice. Lemonade on steroids. Full throttle intensity and concentration. Razor sharp acidity, too linear and intense to enjoy today, but should have ageing potential of 8years+. Drink from 2025. (87/100)

Popped for WJ's Olivier Horiot Zoom session. Aired for 1.5 hours in bottle before tasting. Kept 250ml to retaste next day. Drank in Gabriel Standart. Appearance is clear, medium intensity, golden colour. Thin legs. Fine persistent bubles. Nose is clean, medium+ intensity, with open aromas of soapy white + yellow flowers, rich honeyed citrus orange + Meyer lemon, golden apples, stony minerality, almond nut, toasty brioche, yeast. Developing. On the palate, dry, lovely high acidity, medium- alcohol (12%), medium+ body. …

A one-off "chance" blend of Pinot Meunier, Pinot Gris, and Petit Meslier. Spontaneously co-fermented for almost a year in one used 350-litre barrel. The 467 bottles were disgorged in September 2018 with zero dosage. Already fully accessible, the nose offers an impressive aromatic depth of ripe fruits and nice crushed almonds, sweet cookies and spice additions from the oak. A huge palate with abundant fruit, yet not heavy or overbearing, instead impeccably balanced with a long and dry 'mineral' finish. …