Domaine Bongran (Thevenet), Vire-Clesse, Quintaine Cuvee Levroutee

Final bottle from a three bottle lot purchased at auction in 1998. The first two bottles, tasted in 2000 and 2004, were unfathomable. I decided that patience was required - in the end I gave it eighteen years. Lively golden colour, like a light dessert wine; the nose has opened up beautifully after 27 years, rich and powerful, vestiges of tropical fruit, spicy botrytis, great minerally depth; silky-sweet palate, rich flavours, big and weighty but with lively acidity providing a …

A bit thick and the botyrtis notes were not balanced with acidity or depth. Drinkable, but not for more than a smidge.

Old World wines, Down Under food (Musket Room, NYC) : This is white Burgundy? It tastes like Sauternes with a bit of Auslese, and maybe slightly less residual sugar. Golden/orange color, rich aromas of apricot, honey, and caramel. Full-bodied with a nice texture. Versatile--served the first half with the appetizer and the second with the dessert, and both made for a good pairing. Could use a bit more acid to lift it.

I think it is time to drink these up; the sweetness now dominates the structure and the fruit, and the wine is less fresh. Still impressive though for a Macon.

In great shape still with more years ahead of it, this late harvest chardonnay exhibited wonderful botrytis and a medium level of sweetness...wish I had more of it.

A riddle. My first bottle, some five years ago, was disappointing. Broadbent considered in 1999 that the wine needed bottle age. The colour is now a full yellow with a golden touch; there is pineapple and honey, but as a whole the wine is disjointed and hard, fleshy but with dominating alcohol, hint of sulphur? Softens slightly after decanting. I will try my last bottle in 2015.

Hard to fathom. There clearly is power and depth, weight and cocncentration, but the expression is very limited and the wine seems disjointed, alcoholic and closed. Poor bottle? Wait?