Domaine du Mistral Côtes du Rhone Villages Visan

Splash-decanted and serially tasted over the ensuing two hours, this Grenache-dominated wine offers dark bramble fruits that are accented with cocoa, espresso, garrigue and tobacco. Medium-bodied, fresh, brutally tannic and with well-integrated alcohol (15%), it stays solid in the middle and closes with a grippy, medium-length finish. If you choose to drink this wine now, give it plenty of air. That said, despite its modest sticker price, this is one that cannot be fully judged until its rustic tannins have …