Paul Jaboulet Aine, Saint-Peray, Les Sauvageres

(Christmas.Brunner) [Roussane, marsanne, viognier] Rich, oily, beeswax, bright acidity. Clean, tad empty. Savoury salty seaspray, smoke and honeysuckle, leading to a long floral finish.

Poured half an hour after opening, followed over 2 hours at 9C. Medium yellow. Nose of mineral, beeswax, grilled toast and lemon curd with a faint camphor/menthol note. Off the nose I would have guessed this a Chenin blanc. Slow round attack, building through a mid-palate of lemony acidity, and pleasant final of mineral laced fruit. This was initially a bit too cold but seemed to hit a sweet spot around 12C - warmer than that and it lost some …

Note to self: when browsing wine shops, and I come across a 10 year-old bottle on a shelf with the front label held in place with scotch tape, just keep moving. I rolled the dice figuring this bottle could be a diamond in the rough, or just rough. Well, it was the latter. Oh well, live and learn.

{cork, 13%} A rather alarming golden urine colour, the nose does nothing to dispel those fears! Whiffs of nuts and honeysuckle, perhaps an undercurrant of stewed apples, with a distinct oxidative aura. The palate has touches of nougat and hazelnuts, but mostly is rather greasy and sweaty, with soft acid, a rather warm mouthfeel, and although the weight of the wine covers back to mid-palate quite well, there’s an overall staleness that suggests this wine is quite past its best. …

Tucker Seabrook trade tasting (Redfern) : Deep straw/green colour; typical grassy/herb flavours; there is some acid here but it fights a losing battle against the overwhelming greasiness of the texture. Solid and heavy and short-term.

Light gold, with extraordinary nose; creamy strawberry scent. Full marsanne mouth with bit of oak. Delicious otherwise. G++