Menard-Gaborit Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine sur lie Les Pieds Sur Terre

I find this wine a little harder to read than the last time I had it. Still, it's clearly a seriously made wine that lingers on the palate - and in the memory.

Light gold. Attractive but enigmatic nose: overripe pear? The palate is bold and full, medium length, and maintains that enigmatic complexity. A hard wine to pin down, but I'm enjoying it a lot. Could perhaps benefit from slightly higher acidity for freshness. 12%, cork.

Vibrant straw in the glass, more colour than I expected. The nose is relatively muted - as expected - but the subtle aromas are intriguing: somethin like pickled lemons. On the palate there's an exciting burst of citrus sherbet, a zingy mid-palate, and a long finish where ripeness jousts with acidity. I've tasted several of their more expensive single cru wines before and this is simpler that those; but still it's great fun, a fine match for crab tart, and …