Sandro Fay, Valtellina Superiore, Valgella Riserva Carteria

Valtellina is tucked into the hilly northernmost part of Lombardy, in the province of Sondrio. I think Valgella is a sub-region of Valtellina rather than a vineyard, but it's a little confusing. I'm no expert on the '02 vintage here, although in neighboring Piedmont it is not regarded highly after a string of successful vintage. This was a lovely, deep nebbiolo, redolent of liquer-soaked berries, anise, tar, and leather. Seamless texture, almost caressing . Took it to a BYO restaurant …