Buccia Agawam

Fred Bucci is nothing if not a northeast Ohio iconoclast, so when I asked the winemaker for the Buccia Vineyard wine of which he was the proudest, I shouldn't have been surprised when he pulled out this bottle of wine made from the Rogers hybrid Agawam grape. These early hybrids of vinifera (in this case, black muscat) and labrusca (native American) grapes were developed in the 1850s, way before the New York, Ohio and Michigan program began producing the winter-harder …