Tortochot, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Champeaux

Chantal Tortochot, who worked as a cost controller before inheriting the domaine, could compete for the title of the most acrimonious winemaker in Gevrey, as at her tastings she whined for years why her wines did not sell at the price of her famous neighbors. In many vintages her wines were at best randomly good, and often not at level, but in 2009, they were quite good, the sun drenched vintage has naturally lowered the yields at the domaine, and …

I did not have high expectations from this bottle and was very pleasantly surprised. Reticent and refined blue and red aromas of pinot fruits, without the Gevrey sauvage and without a trace of reduction or oak. Very velvety mouthfeel, no rustic edges, lush, full, oak totally resolved and fine grained tannins, with a plush and mineral finish. Textbook restrained power and minerality of Champeaux. In hot vintages, the combes the lavaux terroirs always shine, and Tortochot can be on and …

Very light color and light body upon opening. Waited a couple hours in glass and it put on a fair amount of weight. It developed a subtle cherry note and slight earthy tones but never really started singing. Was hoping for more from a premier cru Gevrey. I'm no Burg expert, but this doesn't seem likely to improve given that most of the fruit has already faded. For the most enjoyment, I would try to have this with mildly seasoned …