Domaine Binner Riesling Kaefferkopf Cuvée Béatrice

Just beautiful wine, and beautifully fresh. But at the same time you would never confuse this for a young wine, although not on account of any diminution of its primary flavors; instead, while the fruit is still quite youthful, it's the minerality that seems to have advanced into comfortable middle age. Rather than that fresh rainwater stony zing that is the calling card of minerality in a truly young wine (viz. my recent experiences with Thomas-Labaille and Cottat Sancerres, and …