Martin Mullen, Trarbacher Huhnerberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, Mosel

I've been a huge fan of Martin Müllen's Trabacher Hühnerberg wines for over a decade; in fact they are responsible for some of the most mesmerizing Riesling experiences ever, for me. So I now ordered an entire range of his wines from this vineyard, the first of which is this off-dry Kabinett. And sadly, it's a massive disappointment. In fact it drinks like a very ordinary wine from a very ordinary Mosel winenmaker: simple, banal, lacking any precision or structure. …

Ripe white fruits, salinity.

Decanted. Now 1h after decant. Gold yellow color. Aromas of tart apples, unripe nectarines, green herbs and nice minerals. Palate w tart apples, unripe nectarines, lovely green, almost bitter herbs, excellent minerals. Just off dry fruit to counter the excellent acids that give a feeling of mild effervescence. Medium, elegant body. I find the Huhnerberg wines are more about the minerals than fruit and it's the same here. The minerals really shine through. This is juicy, complex ans delicious. Nice …

Extremely elegant and complex semi-dry wine.