Domaine Bersan Sauvignon Saint-Bris

A reminder that Sauvignon Blanc, in the right limestone hands, can feel more Chablis than Marlborough. The 2023 Bersan opens with lifted citrus oil and crushed green apple, then leans into gooseberry, white peach skin, and a flicker of elderflower. There’s a faint vegetal edge—fresh-cut fennel and tomato leaf—tempered by chalk dust and wet stone. On the palate it’s brisk and linear, acidity driving the wine like a taut wire, but there’s a quiet roundness at the core that keeps …

Pretty dynamic Saint Bris. More dry extract and less of the cat-pee overtness. At $26 this is quite the thing. Lots of depth and character. Above average.