Domaine La Garrigue Vacqueyras Cuvée Spéciale

At 14 years of age and with two trans-Atlantic crossings (don't ask!) I expected this to be dead, as 98 was meant to be an average year, and I have no others from the area such as Gigondas left. But what a pleasant surprise! It was full of lovely earth and autumn flavors and still has a good structure thanks to a firm acid backbone. It was a mellow accompaniment to butterflied leg of lamb on the grill.