Vallet Freres Bourgogne Kirkness & Gorie Selection

Pale ruby; completely translucent; inviting. An attractive, berryish nose with a touch of briar wood in the background. The palate is amazing - I swear it is still improving: getting deeper and fruitier, without losing its grace and elegance. Quite amazing, to me, for a simple, inexpensive Bourgogne - especially one that was bottled in Scotland! Not the richest or most complex of Burgundies, but one possessed of perfect balance and that elusive quality - joyfulness. Cork, 12%. Numbered bottle …

Another three years, and this time my impression is that the wine has changed - and improved - considerably. The colour is still ruby, with perhaps the merest hint of tawny creeping in; the hue is transparent. On the nose there's a seductive fruitiness. (What fruit? I can only call it Pinot Noir.) The acidity on the palate is much less marked than I remember: it still brings freshness, but it's fruit that's to the fore now. I don't know …

Considering it's three years since I last tried this, my impressions are remarkably similar. The fruity aromas and body have faded, or at least are evolving, but it remains a light, refreshing, food-friendly basic Burgundy that brings real pleasure.

Very light ruby; translucent. A scent of sweet raspberries and forest floor. On the palate, very light, noticeably acidic, but with plenty of juicy fruit. A reasonable amount of fine, drying tannin, but overall the impression is of lightness. Surprisingly long, dry finish, making it a genuine food wine despite its apparent insubstantiality. 12%. Cork. 'Specially selected for Kirkness & Gorie. Bottled in Kirkwall, Orkney, June 2015.'