Toro Albala, Gines Liebana Pedro Ximenez, Montilla-Moriles

Toro Albalá are well known for their extensive stocks of old Pedro Ximénez but as far as I’m aware, this is the oldest released to date. Named in honour of Spanish artist Ginés Liébana Velasco, these Pedro Ximénez grapes were dried in the Sun to concentrate the sweetness, then matured in American oak for 96 years before finally bottled in August 2006. With only 1490 bottles filled, it’s probably one of the rarest and oldest single-vintage bottlings of PX commercially …

This has the consistency of motor oil, coats and stains the glass. Figs and molasses, incredibly rich. One ounce of this tremendously dense, viscous wine goes a long way. Paired with foie gras ice cream, it was a staggering and decadent combination.

Dark chocolate brown. Chocolate-covered raisins on the nose. Notes of strong molasses, raisins, and a strong, delicious finish of dark chocolate with coffee bean niblets. The chocolate increases with exposure to air but the wine never loses the dried fruit notes. Slight herbal elements redolent of a high-quality fernet. Unctuous texture; unbelievably delicious.

Consumed over three successive nights, and I appreciated it as a better wine each night. Displays the concentration that great old PX almost always has with fig, candied plum, molasses, caramelized brown sugar. But this also has enticing spice notes on both the nose and palate with the back of the palate redolent with white pepper and candied ginger.