Bereche et Fils, Reflet d'Antan

The Reflet d’Antan 2010 opens with golden brioche and toasted hazelnut aromas, underpinned by bright red berry compote and a hint of lemon curd. On the palate the mousse is silky and unctuous, balanced by crisp citrus acidity, chalky minerality and a persistent, gently bitter almond finish. I find its bold, layered structure wonderfully expressive, though the wine’s oxidative edge may feel assertive alongside more delicate fare.

Disgorged December, 2013, 3g/L dosage. 100% pinot meunier. Beautiful funky, developing complex nose with classic meunier elements of brown butter, marmalade. Palate follows the nose, really interesting, but initially quite austere. More fruit, or perhaps a few more grams of dosage would help here. Maybe just revealing the limits of what 2010 provided. Day 2, not much improved, initially showing an odd reductive note which cleared up eventually. I'm inclined to hold for further development and softening of the palate.

Very nice. Firm acid, lean, minerally with a very typical expression for this wine. A bit pinched in the midpalate; I wonder if another gram or two might have helped balance the wine better. But then that wouldn't have been Rive Gauche, I suppose. A little more development wouldn't hurt, but this seems to be in a fine place to begin opening bottles.

Golden to blood orange in color. Definitely a tired wine that has seen some oxidation. Likely that this bottle is flawed versus the entirety of the vintage is currently "past prime" only seven years out. The wine was basically apple cider. I'll mark as flawed in fairness to Bereche as all of their other wines I've tried have been fabulous.