Contrade di Taurasi (Cantine Lonardo) Taurasi Vigne d'Alto

Tasted in a lineup of Lonardo's '16s, all of which shone. The 'Coste,' done on a rare bit of limestone there, is quite a bit more approachable right now. But the 'Vigne d'Alto' feels like Taurasi at its most Platonic -- dense, chocolate-ey, and with really dark volcanic depths. If you're not cellaring this for a decade or four, I recommend a looong decant at this stage -- you will be rewarded for having done so.