The Hatch Dynasty White

This is Chardonnay and Semillon fermented in old neutral oak and then rested for 9 months in stainless steel on the lees, topped up with a little Muscat at the end. The result is a medium gold, deeply textured sip with a surprisingly delicate, nuanced palate. I was expecting something more hefty, perhaps a tad awkward and ungainly if not ultimately delicious (perhaps it’s the rather backwoods-looking stubby bottle). Hard no. This is all class. Subtle floral perfume hits first, …