Camille Giroud, Santenay Premier Cru, Clos Rousseau

Cherryade colour; bright red fruit, smoky, earthy edge; lithe, supple, some tannins underneath, elegant mid-palate; big finish. Still yet to peak.

Far more concentrated than the villages but offering no less charm. Glimpses of brackish red fruits and quality oak but with a leanness that offers great balance. Sweetness and spice on the palate despite its ample stuffing. Taut and tapered. Plenty to go on. Next bottle 2027.

Crimson; suave bouquet, some stems; on the rich side, generous, a freshness appears later; elegant, extended finish. This needed air to shed puppy fat. Merits being left alone for a couple more years.

Cellartracker in the flesh with Mats, Tomas and Atsushi (Fujiyama Bar and Diner) : Softly red berried fruit, pretty, simple. Fresh and juicy on the palate with similar red fruits - strawberry - and some gentle tannic burr. Nice

Weightless yet plump & spiced. Med ruby. Pronounced. Violet, strawberry, raspberry. cloves.sweet spice. Silky. Med+ acidity, Med tannin, soft. Med body & alcohol 13,5%.vBeru elegant and balanced. Outstanding. Minus > heavy bootie NB: Clos Rousseau is a big vineyard mostly composed of iron-rich clay but the sub-clos of Roches Noires has more limestone. Carel has access to three parcels, one with 50-year-old vines. There’s less whole-bunch this year, at 25%. Drink 2024-2035.

Quite big, certainly tastes southern, verging on Rhône, with its warm red fruit. Some secondary development with earthy, leathery cinnamon spice. Also hints to Nebbiolo with some tarry notes. Lacking a bit of acidity for my taste. Impressive and interesting rather than hugely enjoyable.