Jean Chartron, Bourgogne, Cuvee Eugenie Dupard Chardonnay

Entry level Bourgogne (Must & Lees, Warren Street) : Quite pale. Sharp and clean, love this style. Apparently from younger vines in Puligny, so all the benefits of those soils. Really quite racy all things considered, nice acidity and length, cracking value at £20 on the table. Very bourgogne blanc, you don't get this elsewhere.

Basic Bourgogne (TWS), 23 November (Must and Lees, Warren Street) : I am biased as I brought this, but for me this was the value pick of the night. A lovely blend of old and younger vines bringing both some of the generosity and opulence that you associate with Puligny, with a thread of racy and energetic citrus fruit and acidity. On the nose: melon, lemon, and sun, with a pleasant slightly green tinge - I thought possibly celery. On …

Reasonably priced Burgundy (Must & Lees, Warren Street) : Very ripe, unadorned fruit. Grapefruit, celery, ripe lemon. A sweaty note and honeyed sweetness. Really good on the palate: angular, mineral, super bright with sharp acidity that really sings. Not what's in my mind when I think of Burg, but interesting nonetheless.

Another bottle punching well above its price bracket and lowly status. Crisp, refreshing, a pleasing hint of reduction and orange peel come together to make a very pleasing glass that makes you think twice about spending tons of money on white burgundy.

Initially a bit in-your-face fruity, rich and round, glistening - I wondered if I had opened something from the Maconnais. However once over this initial hurdle and with time open (say an hour?) it mellowed into a much calmer and more refined glass of wine that was a lot more pleasing. I'd happily drink more of this, and at £15ish, a very solid qpr for what you are getting.