Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes

Christmas Wimps 2021 - Home Alone 2 table (La Trompette) : Another 1996 that didn't seem to hang together perfectly. Truffley nose, with a touch of meat, and soft flowers with air. Quite punchy on the palate, slightly green, with a sharp, metallic finish.

Black-red, oaky allspice aroma, flavour of redcurrant, apple juice, oak, liquorice. Complex and delicious.

Fully mature, needed 1-2 hours of decanting. Solid, ready now, and not getting better.

Six bottles between sixteen guests at a dinner party at home after a day of gales at Swinithwaite & Cragdale, and before a second day at Commondale in an even stronger gale. Quite a gentle Volnay, perfect with Brian Dennison's signature duck and al dente veg. Fully ready, some length, just right for a party of this kind. Won't improve any further; great QPR at £21.50 (back in 1998!). Just one bottle remains.

Greatly transformed from a few years ago. The acidity has retreated to leave a thoroughly enjoyable Volnay 1er. Bottle stink soon wore off, then a slightly tight palate to contrast with a sweet and succulent nose. But two hours later, vigorous and sweet on the palate as well, a sipper not a swigger, and very more-ish. For me, the retreat of the '96 acidity is astonishing; for many years I thought it was a permanent blight on the vintage. (And …